Feel the call to create a pollinator in your garden, but don't know where to start? Here are some tips to get you started.
Most seeds are sown where there is existing grass. To build a pollinator garden, the lawn must first be removed.
Mulch blocks sunlight, kills existing plants, and creates space and opportunity for the desired plant to grow. It can be used to destroy existing plants to prepare the garden for planting different materials.
Remove or cut dead leaves around the area to form a planting bed 6-12 inches deep. Leave the leaves until spring, then pull and spread them 2 to 4 inches deep. The leaves become tree cover and the pollinated plants can be planted directly into the soil.
Lay the wood chips 4 to 6 inches deep. You will eat most grasses and herbs. However, stubborn perennials can grow in dirt but are easily pulled out. Look for shredded wood chips that stick together to form a waterproof casing. If you notice this happening, till the field to break up the crust. When you're ready to plant, cut the tree back to a depth of 2 to 4 inches.
The black plastic forage board prevents light from reaching the soil, killing live plants and preventing seed germination. Gardeners can cut the plant and paint the head to fit the plastic. Or by plowing and digging the prepared soil and then covering it. Tillage creates an opportunity for the seeds to germinate. Mulching after tilling kills germinated seed, creating clean seed. Remove the plastic before planting.
Cardboard is another possible material if its sole purpose is smoking. Remove any tape, stickers, clips, or other shipping and packaging materials. Remove the cardboard before planting. Cardboard can be hydrophilic (holds a lot of water), making it a less desirable choice than laminate.
Chemical and mechanical removal
Spraying with an insecticide usually gives very quick results with minimal effort to destroy existing plant material. There are different types of broad spectrum herbicides that can be used. When choosing a chemical, the herbicide is soil-active, because suitable products have a low stability or short period, allowing users to plant immediately after application. Contact your local extension specialist at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice for assistance with herbicide application.
Weeding is always an option, but it is a labor-intensive method. Sod can be removed using a sharp shovel and a flat bottom shovel. Using shallow scooping motions, remove the topsoil and roots to remove existing mulch. The flat bottom blade can be used to rake grass or loosen loose soil. Make sure you go deep enough to get all of the roots, but not so deep that you minimize soil removal. Learn what to do with the grass. Consider placing the mulch elsewhere on the lawn or placing it in the compost pile.
Soda can be removed with a soda cutter. Consider renting a local landscaper or renting a landscape cutter from a tool rental company to perform this task. This method is a quick way to start off with a nice clean slate.
It is possible to plow the grass for planting. Plow to a depth that destroys the grassroots. If a soil amendment is required, incorporate 6 to 10 inches. Pull the tilled weeds and dump the weeds and roots into the compost pile. It may be necessary to make several passes with the mower and rake to remove all vegetation.
If you have questions about your garden or landscape, contact the University of Illinois Mattoon Extension Office at 217-345-7034 or online at form.illinois.edu/sec/1523725.
Be sure to visit the U of I Extension website at Extension.illinois.edu/ccdms, as well as the Master Gardeners Facebook page @ColesCountyMasterGardeners and the Master Naturalists Facebook page @Praire'sEdgeMasterNaturalists.
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