Hello Sue. Last year, gray squash bugs appeared around the zucchini in my garden. I've read that spraying a mixture of neem oil and water on both sides of the leaves and vines gets rid of the problem. It worked. This year I tried to be proactive and look for eggs that could be removed before they turned into pesky bugs. But I wasn't in a hurry and the errors came back. I applied a mixture of oil and water on them. What else can be done to control the insects? Is there anything I can do next year to prevent bed bugs from coming back? I would appreciate any of your suggestions. Thank you.
— Bob Orenstein PS: Hi Fran, He could have taken a better picture of my ulcer.
Gray beetles eating pumpkins look like squash to me. Adult marrow bugs (Anasa tristis) are large (about 5/8 inch long) with flattened bodies. They are usually dark gray to dark brown in color. Abdomen, orange and brown stripes alternately. Nymphs are initially small and green. Beetles are similar to squash, but larger and rounder.
Damage caused by squash beetles includes:
- It feeds by sucking sap from leaves. This results in yellow spots that turn brown with age.
- Severe infections can cause dehydration as food can retain water and nutrients. Fortunately, unlike cucumber beetles, pumpkin beetles do not get sick.
There are several tools that can be used to deal with this parasite:
- Neem is an effective treatment. Unfortunately, as you discovered, it requires caution and frequent use.
- Clean up the garden after picking pumpkins. Adults left on plants exacerbate the problem. Do not compost the affected plants - they will only become a nice and cozy home for the winter. Once the vine bears fruit, no treatment or intervention is required.
- In spring, check for overwintering adults. They can be found on perennials, under trash or near buildings—anywhere—where they provide protection from the cold. Insects move quickly into squash, so check young plants regularly and remove pests.
- Select adults and nymphs. Not suitable for a large garden, but effective if you only have a few plants. Check both sides of the leaves and stems. You can kill bed bugs by soaking them in soapy water. Be aware that they can move quickly when disturbed.
- Look for eggs on the undersides of leaves and stems. Remove it and destroy it by crushing it.
- Barriers, row covers, fine netting, etc. are effective if installed before insects enter your garden. Make sure the bottom of the cover is firmly on the ground to prevent insects from crawling through. Remember that when the plant is in flower, all cover should be removed to allow pollination.
- Spread a board, cardboard or newspaper on the floor near the bed. At night, the adults will congregate in the hide, and in the morning they may be picked off and killed.
- I found several mentions of gourd companion plants that are said to repel insects: lemon balm, catnip, marigold, spearmint, chervil, radish, and bordeaux.
- Postpone planting until early summer, as most infections occur in the spring.
- If you choose to use insecticides, be aware that the most vulnerable stage is the nymph stage. After rod failure, no treatment or intervention is required. Most chemicals available to gardeners are much less effective for adults. Apply in the morning or evening to reduce exposure to bees. Pay attention to the underside of the leaves, as that is where the insects nest. Always use the product according to the label and make sure it is effective against pests and suitable for use in the garden. Soaps and products containing oils, such as neem oil, horticultural oil and canola oil, are less toxic than other chemicals.
For photographs and more information, see Minnesota Extension's Zucchini Beetles in Home Gardens Extension article on the Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu.
Aerial bulbs of garlic
I read your article about growing garlic and I want to point out that you missed the most important thing about growing garlic: As the plant grows, the stem grows right in the middle and the pods are at the top. The waffle is shaped like a Hersey's Kiss chocolate candy and is very easy to identify. (If neglected, the stem will curl like a corkscrew because it is longer than the rest of the plant.) Stems with pods should be cut off, because if they are not removed, all the plant's energy will go into the pods, not the bulbs. As a result, the bulb will never grow and develop and the gardener will be very disappointed at harvest if his bulbs are only 1/2 inch in diameter. Check to see if the stems start growing (I think 4-5 weeks after the plant starts growing) and cut or break them off. The sooner you get rid of the bulbs, the better the harvest will be.
- Don Kemechak.
I thought I already talked about this in the hat and cutting flowers discussion, but let me be clear.
Shedding of leaves and, above all, bulbs after flowering will reduce the size and quality of garlic bulbs cut underground. Like other bulbs, garlic uses nutrients stored in the bulb to grow above ground, like daffodils, tulips, etc. So the best advice I can give you is to cut off the hats - early when you don't have any. They curl when used, but keep them from growing and blooming.
week in the garden
Plants: Plant pansies for fall color and if you choose winter pansies, they bloom in early spring. Asters and mommies are in stock, shop now for the best selection; Use in the garden or as part of a container. Sow autumn flower and foliage seeds: pansies, snapdragons, mustard greens, cabbage greens and kale. Plant, but protect from heat: late-season cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, peas, and broccoli for harvest in late summer or early fall. They also sow seeds that need a cold period to germinate; Poppy, for example. Store new plants for a week or two until the weather cools down a bit before planting perennials, shrubs and trees. Store bulbs until October. Divide and repot summer flowering perennials when they finish blooming.
Seasonal: Allow the last flowers to set seed. Many provide food for birds and small mammals in autumn and winter. Take cuttings of annuals that you want to overwinter, or other favorite plants that have outgrown and bring them indoors. Order asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flowering and fruit trees, shrubs for fall planting. Shop nurseries for end-of-season deals or new fall arrivals. Weed and prune flowers regularly for weeds you can't pull. Dead flowers, as well as damaged, diseased and dead leaves, are cut to maintain order in the bed and encourage reblooming. In particular, avoid pod formation on irises and daylilies. Let peonies grow until fall, then cut them back. Prune summer flowering shrubs about two weeks after flowering. Apply corn gluten herbicide to the garden and follow a re-application schedule, usually four to six weeks apart.
Lawns: Sow, sow, loosen lawns and aerate lawns from September to mid-October. Apply broadleaf weed control from September to mid-October. Install sod as it cools in September and October. Treating insects and worms. Buy fertilizer and, if you want, apply now through mid-October. Depending on the growth schedule, prune the shoots as needed to a height of about 2-3 inches. Use a sharp blade. Water freshly sown or mowed lawns; Make up for the week with less than an inch of rain. Fill holes and depressions in the lawn.
Homework: Stop watering amaryllis bulbs. Allow the bulbs to dry and hibernate. Store in a cool dry place until they sprout again in 8-10 weeks. Start planning for fall. Order bulbs and plants for early fall delivery. Check the seed bank for late harvest and sowing. Prepare plants for delivery. Replace those who need it and those who want to overwinter. Harvest regularly, at least every other day. Dispose of standing water and remove anything that can collect rainwater to control mosquito populations. Clean and disinfect songbirds weekly to control disease. Water all recent plantings and containers if less than an inch of rain falls in a week. Repair damaged screens and waterproofing around windows and doors to prepare for overwintering insects and rodents. Protect vulnerable plants from deer, rabbits and marmots. Re-apply taste and odor control. Clean and refill bird feeders regularly. Clean off any loose seeds and empty husks. Fill, clean, sterilize, rinse and refill bird bowls at least once a week. Clean gutters and remove rainwater from your home's foundation.
Equipment, Tools, and Supplies: Inspect, repair, or replace winter/fall equipment as needed.
Safety: Before mowing, clear the lawn of debris and ensure that pets, children and other people are a sufficient distance from the mowing area. Store garden chemicals indoors, away from pets and children. Dispose of obsolete chemicals at local chemical collection events. Before cleaning or repairing for an insurance claim, take photos of the storm damage and send them immediately. If you're outside and the temperature is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or higher, check for tick bites. Apply an insect repellent containing Deet. Apply permethrin to clothing. Wear light colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long trousers when gardening. Staying hydrated. Drink water or other decaffeinated and non-alcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, wear sunscreen, wear a hat and limit sun exposure. Wear closed shoes and gloves; Use eye protection; And wear hearing protection when using aggressive power tools.
Sue Kitek is a freelance journalist, author and garden educator. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or send an email to: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
