I have always liked going on vacations in the off-season for various reasons. Depending on the destination, of course, fares can often be lower, less crowded, and the weather can be mild and pleasant. I find that visiting places in the off-season gives me a different perspective, allowing me to see all the trees in the proverbial forest. There is a warm clarity when you walk on the beach in January or walk the trails of a ski resort in summer.
After Christmas, my husband and I took a quick trip to Norfolk, Virginia because we wanted to explore the maritime history and culinary treasures (kicks of course) that this town has. In these respects, Norfolk did not disappoint. What we enjoyed most about the trip was the preponderance of green space, community and private gardens, and the jewel of public horticulture, the Norfolk Botanic Gardens.
Before the trip began, we planned to visit the Norfolk Botanic Gardens (NBG) and spend most of the day exploring. Our visit to NBG was dictated by the weather, which pushed this hike into Norfolk on our last full day (which turned out to be a beautiful 60 degree winter day). This meant that the first few days were spent sightseeing, shopping, visiting museums, and exploring the pedestrian-friendly areas of the historic district where we were located. What we discovered, to our delight, were many gardens right under our noses, scattered within a few minutes' walk of our apartment.
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Heliconia 'Christmas Party' in bloom at the Norfolk Botanic Gardens Conservatory in late December 2022.
Along the banks of the Elizabeth River, we find the sanctuary and East Garden, a public park run by the city with an interesting history. The Japanese garden is filled with oriental-inspired architecture, koi ponds, traditional bridges, and a large two-story shrine on top. The sanctuary is also known as the Marine Observatory and was donated to the Commonwealth of Virginia and the City of Norfolk in the 1980s by the Taiwanese provincial government.
Visiting a Japanese garden while you sleep is a pleasure because you really get an idea of the interior, the plant structure and appreciate the effect of the conifers on the veranda. Although I found the size and decoration of the shrine a bit overwhelming, the oriental garden was pleasant overall. I was lost there for almost an hour, doing nothing but slow steps and feeling the cold wind on my face.
On my morning run, I passed a sign saying Botetourt Gardens, which I wasn't sure if it was a destination or just a street name. The second morning my curiosity got the better of me and I set out to explore. What I found was a piece of horticultural history less than five minutes from the rental.
The Old Witness, a concrete sculpture by Diane Hewson, stands at the center of the Norfolk Botanic Gardens Conservatory.
Botetourt Gardens seems to be just the name of a street, but at its height is the Fred Hoyte Horticultural Center, a truly unique building surrounded by beautiful gardens. Open by appointment only, I didn't get to explore the interior, but I was able to learn a lot from my impromptu visit. To the rear of the center was a tangled garden, dotted here and there with patches of perennial herbs and vegetables. The water features and pergolas made the space seem so much bigger than it actually was, since it's only half an acre.
The building itself is very attractive and unique and I soon understood why. It was originally a ferry terminal used to the tunnel between Norfolk and Portsmouth in the 1950s. Dismantled and preserved for decades, the ferry terminal building was rebuilt in Ghent Square and became the Fred Hoyte Horticultural Centre.
But who was Fred Hoyte? As it turns out, the answer to that question was the most interesting feature of the park that he had just discovered. Hoyte was the mastermind behind the creation of the Norfolk Botanical Garden, established in the late 1930s by the Norfolk city manager through a grant from President Roosevelt's New Deal Works Progress Administration. NBG was originally named the Azalea Garden, designed to attract visitors and to compete with similar gardens in Charleston, South Carolina.
Following his work at Azalea Gardens, Hayte became Norfolk Parks Superintendent, cementing his reputation in Norfolk as the "King of Gardeners." After reading his legacy, it became clear that Höte was Norfolk's horticulture guru. I was in awe when I found this special place, especially glad I had a history lesson the day before visiting NBG.
On our last day in Norfolk we spent a few hours at NBG. Like many botanic gardens, NBG has a Christmas light show which was still going on the night we visited. We weren't there for the lights so visiting the park in daylight was fine for us.
We have mainly focused on demo gardens rather than larger gardens. We started in the Japanese Garden, which was even more sophisticated than anything we had seen in Central Norfolk. I love looking at the pruning styles associated with traditional Japanese plants, especially maples. There were some fine specimens, including Acer palmatum dissectum 'Garnet', which was delightfully twisted. As I have lamented before, I love the bare bones of deciduous trees.
We spent time in the conservatory where I fell in love with the concrete sculpture of a tree draped in epiphytes and Spanish moss. Nicknamed the "Old Witness", this large sculpture stood in the center of the terrace in the garden below. Another highlight of the conservatory was Heliconia 'Christmas Holidays', a tropical bird of paradise with brilliant red and white flowers. It was an impressive plant to see in bloom.
Oriental Ilex 'Canary' shines bright in the Holly Garden at Norfolk Botanic Gardens.
We were led through the fragrance garden, the huge Camellia Garden and the Holly Garden, where I was fascinated by an American coffee tree with ripe yellow berries called 'Canary'. The Renaissance Courtyard was full of charm, just in time to host the annual coronation of the International Queen of Azaleas.
The conservatory was in its heyday, of course, with features layered with seasonal interest. This park is located on the banks of a creek that meanders through NBG, and silken dogwoods cover most of the bank. Colors dominate this space: the blue of juniper, the bright yellow of Chamaecyparis, and the dark foliage of loropetalum 'Purple Daydream'.
A large steel and glass painting captures the winter sunlight in the Reflecting Garden at the Norfolk Botanic Gardens.
I found my most peaceful place in the Reflection Garden, where a large steel and glass sculpture took advantage of the light and warmth of a winter day. Mostly devoid of plants, this small garden offered concentration and the movement of water, the perfect place to stop and take a moment to think and meditate.
What I have described is just the tip of the iceberg for NBG, a park that should definitely be on your bucket list. Our time in Norfolk was truly spectacular as it seemed like everywhere we looked there was new green space to explore. The gardens are full of stories and they all seem to teach different lessons. Thanks, Norfolk, for a great gardening experience.
Amy Dixon is an assistant horticulturist at Wake Forest University's Reynolda Gardens. Gardening questions or story ideas can be sent to www.facebook.com/WSJAmyDixon or news@wsjournal.com with "gardening" in the subject line.
Or write Amy Dixon at Features, Winston-Salem Journal, 418 N. Marshall St., Winston-Salem, NC 27101.
